Bravo Concrete Design: Concrete Staining and Scoring

Contractors

Some or all of the areas on the slab are going to be scored and stained concrete floors. This means that the concrete finish is not only going to show, but be an important element in the beauty of the customer's finished flooring. Here are some tips to help in producing a high quality finished product that will make us all look good.

1. Become aware of the areas where the concrete slab is going to be the finished flooring and pay special attention to those areas in the placing and troweling process.

2. It is important to evenly creed the concrete to avoid dips and high spots. It is also necessary to adequately agitate the surface of the concrete using a "jitterbug" to bring the cement to the surface and cause the aggregate to sink down from the surface.

3. The architect and/or customer do not desire dehydration cracking. To minimize this possibility, the following recommendations should be followed:

Make sure the mat steel in the slab areas to be exposed is well blocked up so that the steel is in the top 2" of the concrete.

Avoid pouring on hot, dry days, if possible. Pour early during the summer.

As soon as possible, start wetting the concrete surface with a water sprinkler and don't remove the forms for several days; the idea is to slow down the dehydration process especially during the summer.

DO NOT COVER WITH PLASTIC.

Builders

Bravo Concrete Design highly recommends that the staining and sealing process be done as soon as the structure is "dried-in," before any other mechanical subs or painters are allowed to enter the project. The floors are less susceptible to damage then, and can be covered for the remainder of the job to insure that they are protected from glue, marks, paint, etc. A regular cleaning is usually all that is necessary to make the floor ready for the customer.

To cover the floor, we recommend Thermoply type sheathing be placed on finished areas and taped together with duct tape or the equal. Hold the sheathing away from the walls about 3 inches and use moist stop stapled to the wall to run under the sheathing. Do not tape directly to the finished flooring. Tape contains acid and will etch the concrete if left over 24 hours. Do not allow glues, paint or solvents on the floor. We recommend placing a warning sign stating that the flooring is finished concrete for all subcontractors.

Subcontractors and substances to watch for:

Plumbers: PVC glues and cleaners, pipe dope, flux, pipe threading oil

Electricians: Do not mark electrical locations on the floor HVAC: Glues for make-up of return-air and supply ducts

Insulators: Polyseal for doors and windows

Sheetrockers: Sheetrock dust, TFT mud

Painters: Paint, thinners, sealers, stains-you name it!

All Subs: Any marks or food or beverage spills on slab, watch for nails - they stain (rust) when wet, pencil marks and marks-a-lot do not come out.

The most important part of this process is communication with your subs. They will forget, or someone won't "get the word," so reminders are necessary. Good subs usually pick up this process quickly and are very careful and respectful.

NOTE: Do not at any time attempt to clean the concrete using any kind of special cleaners or chemicals. Especially avoid anything containing acid. Contact Bravo Concrete Design before attempting to use any type of substance on these floors either before or after staining and sealing.

EXISTING CONCRETE OR "RETRO" Tile, linoleum or carpet can be removed from the surface, but concrete is a porous surface and will retain subsurface material that will retard stain. Carpet tacks leave divots from 1 to 2 inches in diameter and must be patched. These patches rarely match the existing concrete.

Framers

When the building is complete, the slab will not only show, but be the actual floor. This requires that some extra precautions be taken during the framing process to ensure that the finished product is of the highest quality available and everyone is satisfied.

1. Use only blue chalk for popping wall lines. Orange, red, etc. will permanently stain the concrete. Blue will also stain over a period of time.

2. Mark opening on the slab with a crayon or pencil only. Do not bear down with your pencil, as it can become permanent when the slab is still green. NEVER USE A MARKS-A-LOT!

3. Do not nail any temporary blocking to the slab for wall bracing. Pot marks left by concrete nails and ram set pins will show. If they are filled, they take the stain differently and also show.

4. Do not leave any nails on the slab at the end of the day, especially if it is wet or about to be wet. Rust stains can be permanent.

5. Cut out all door openings in the bottom plate immediately. Wood in contact with the slab will stain it, especially wolmanized plate.

6. Avoid getting any glue or other adhesives on the slab. They will keep stain from taking correctly, even if cleaned up later.

7. Please avoid spills of cokes, coffee, food, etc. They can also stain.

8. Do not leave wood (especially wolmanized) lying around on the slab for long periods of time. Also, do not leave sawdust piles. Wood can stain when wet.

9. Do not leave adhesive tape on floor for more than one day. Adhesive has an acid base and will etch concrete.